Monday 27 July 2015

Huck Magazine!

So hyped, honoured and very thankful to be featured in the latest Huck Magazine adventure issue! It's out now in stores if you fancy a wee read of my story back to ocean. Photography by the rather talented Gareth Costello - not that I'm biased! Follow his work on Instagram @gbcostello






Tuesday 21 July 2015

Island life - Maldives ❤️

So the Maldives has always been up there as one of my all time surf destinations. I was so hyped to be taking off from Colombo but pretty apprehensive at the same time. 

I had butterflies in my tummy, thinking about surfing over coral again, miles out on a boat without any hospitals close by. This is just always something I'm thinking of now after the accident..."what if." 

As we arrived at the airport and were quickly escorted to the speed boat taking us to Kandooma, that all just seemed to fade. A wise person once said to me - "what is, is and what was, was" I hadn't really given it too much thought but it was profound in my mind that night. We had arrived in paradise. A surfers paradise. I was lucky to be alive and be here experiencing this, I had to make the most of it! Excitement took over. Even under the dark, starry skies, the water was crystal clear when we stepped onto the boat. I could not wait to see this place in the morning! 

Waking up was nothing short of magical - 



I've been all over the world, but never have I seen such white sand and such crystal clear water. I felt like the luckiest girl alive ❤️

The first couple of days were pretty small swell wise so that gave me some time to adjust to island life and do some snorkelling and swimming. There were the cutest little reef sharks in the lagoon at Kandooma right and an abundance of stunning fish and live coral! Not to mention plenty of chill time in the sun and out on the boat! 






Day 2 and I had even managed to pluck up the courage to jump in off the top of the boat. That was something I couldn't even have envisaged wanting to do 6 months ago and now I felt like the me that craved adventure and adrenaline was finally coming back and it felt so good! 


By day 4 the charts were starting to line up and we could see the swell was coming. I was so excited to surf the waves a little bigger and see how I felt.



Riding out to the waves by boat is so chilled! Definitely my preferred mode of surf transport! ❤️






Each day and each wave I caught helped my confidence grow. I have to say a massive thanks to the perfect wave crew at Kandooma for being super supportive and helping me believe that I could get out there and do what always used to come as second nature before. This picture by Robert Underwood captures me out on one of the smaller days before the bigger swell arrived. I honestly can't even begin to say how good it felt being out there riding those waves! 

More surf pics to follow soon... 

Sunsets were such a special time at night. So peaceful and so beautiful - laced with so many colours! 




As a special treat for my upcoming birthday we spent a couple of nights in the over water villas! Probably the raddest room I have ever stayed in. Not to mention snorkelling from our bedroom at any time of day or night! 



Also had the best bath of my life! Can't really beat this view from a tub with bubbles ❤️


Lying out on our deck at any time of the day was so chilled. I loved just lying out. Listening to the waves and the sounds of the ocean. 
Late at night, we just lay out under the stars over the top of the water. So many stars but what never fails to amaze me is seeing the same constellations I look at up in the sky from back home in Scotland. It's so beautiful and amazing. It makes you feel so small and truly thankful. For me lying there in that moment all I could think of was how lucky I was. I have an amazing family who have supported me through thick and thin, true friends old and new who have been there by my side through the smiles and the tears, an amazing new boy in my life who makes me laugh every day I'm with him, my sponsors who have stuck by me and God who I believe has made all of this possible for me. I was there under the Maldivian sky, reflecting on how life is now and how truly grateful I am. No words can surmise that feeling. I guess "blessed" is the closest I can get but it still doesn't even scratch the surface of how deep that feeling goes! 


I felt like a proper little island girl by the end of my 8 nights there. Smiles from ear to ear. I had snorkelled with turtles, jumped off boats, met some truly inspiring people, laughed, smiled, eaten amazing food and surfed some of the best waves I have surfed since my accident back in 2013. It felt incredible. 


This place was truly beautiful. A once in a lifetime experience.


Thank you the Maldives for helping me get my surf wings back! You've helped me more than you'll ever know ❤️































Monday 20 July 2015

Sri Lanka...the final instalment

Arriving in Yala at night to the sights of wild bore lining the road made me smile. All I could think of was the Lion King. I had never been on safari before so I was really excited to see what it was all about.



Jetwing is a beautiful place so after a huge feast at breakfast, there was some pool chill time prior to heading out to see the animals. After surfing almost every day for the past 3 weeks, it was nice to just have some chill time and a swim! 


The safari was pretty cool! We saw some massive crocodiles, lots of bambis (spotted deer), beautiful birds - bee eaters, painted storks, pelicans, ibis (to name a few) and elephants. I was so desperate to see a leopard but I guess they were hiding out. There's rumours that the animals have started to migrate East - perhaps as a result of the ever increasing traffic in the park itself. 



Seeing all those beautiful creatures in the wild was really special. It's a whole different world out there and it makes you feel pretty tiny! 

We visited a little spot to jump out of the jeep to stretch our legs. Our driver explained that there was a memorial here for the people who died in the tsunami back in 2004. He told us about how many of the safari jeeps in that exact spot had been taken. It felt kind of spooky being there and made me feel sad to think of all the people who lost their lives that day. 

The little bay was pretty and lined with small fishing huts. I even saw a wave breaking there too. Of course I didn't have my surf board with me and I guess surfing in the national park probably isn't allowed! 


We headed out of the park for sunset. Our time in Sri Lanka was coming to an end. Koslanda was the last spot on the itinerary. 


The trip to Koslanda wasn't so far and we arrived to absolute tranquility! We were the only people there and it really was so peaceful. 

Living heritage grow all their own vegetables and herbs. We got to taste coffee beans from the tree and the whole place just smelt of jasmine flowers. 


The rooms were so cool. We had a whole courtyard to ourselves and a jacuzzi bath outside. Definitely a highlight!





They even had their own private waterfall that we hiked through the jungle too! I have to say passing massive elephant foot prints in the tracks and huge snake mounds did freak me out a little but then arriving to this made it all seem ok! 


I had never swam under a waterfall like this before and it was so special. 

Sitting out as the sun came down, I just reflected on everything. My time spent in Sri Lanka had been so incredible. Better than I could ever have imagined or expected. I had made real friends, experienced so much culture, tasted new food, seen beautiful wildlife and scenes that I'll always remember. Plus I had gained so much confidence in the water. So it was farewell to Sri Lanka and the Maldives was the next spot. I know one thing for sure, that I will definitely be coming back to this beautiful country again soon ❤️



Wednesday 1 July 2015

Sri Lanka Part 2 - Arugambay ❤️

Where to even start...Heading to Arugambay from Ella was about a 3 hour drive. Picked up by Janaka (who now feels like family) meant we could take one more trip up the falls en route and this time we went a bit higher! 


As we drove down through the mountains, things started to flatten out and get hotter and hotter! I knew as soon as I saw an elephant en route that this was going to be pretty special. 

Finally, after a few hours on the road, I caught my first glimpse of the ocean and the swell lines rolling in! Couldn't wait to get to Coco Bay to explore.



Coco Bay is such a beautiful little haven. A mere 10 minute walk from main point and nestled in tranquility. 




After settling in, we took a stroll down to the beach and I got my first look at Arugam bay's stunning shoreline. 



The first few days were pretty mellow wave wise and gave me a chance to settle into life here. We took a couple of trips up north for some fun little waves. I had forgot how amazing it is to be surfing in tropical waters ❤️





King Kannan as we named him was the best Tuk Tuk driver we could have ever wished to meet. He knew all the spots and found elephants at the side of the road and plenty of other wildlife too. 


Kannan also took us to his family home near Lighthouse  Point where we enjoyed coconuts and peanuts from his family farm. 




Kannan also had us to his home for dinner. He made me auntie to his little boy, which I am stoked about. There were plenty of high fives and cuddles. I am seriously going to miss that wee face! 

The big swell that was forecast hit and it didn't disappoint. I was pretty tentative the first few days and when the swell arrived, in my heart I just wanted to be out there but in my head, I just kept going straight back to the accident and psyched myself out.   I got to know the local surfers pretty well and they rip! Asanka and Praneeth were two of the boys who really impressed me.  They also looked out for me a lot in the water and thanks to their help, I paddled out and bagged myself one of these beauties.

Asanka below, recovering from an ankle injury. 






It was solid out there and by far the biggest I had surfed since the accident and my injury. Of course I was terrified, my heart pounding as I scrambled over the sets but when I paddled in, I guess instinct just took over and my body took control over my head. Literally the best feeling in the world to catch that wave. I can't even describe! As always I am just so thankful to be back out in the water and being able to surf the waves that day with the locals was really special. Surf pics to follow...

This smiley face pretty much sums up my hype over being out there again though. Feeling really stoked I went out there. 





We took a trip to elephant rock one evening with Kannan to watch the sunrise. Sri Lanka really is such a stunningly beautiful country. 



Kannan also took us out on a 5am fishing mission one morning. Paddling out on the catamaran at 5 in the morning was a little different to being out in the line up at 5am! Watching the sun come up as the boats paddled out was so pretty! 


We didn't bring home any dinner but it was ace fun! 


We took a trip on a boat in the Mangroves that evening, which was super nice. We saw and elephant bathing, crocodiles and lots of beautiful birds. 

As if things couldn't get any better, I also saw resident dog at Coco Bay, Laki, give birth to 9 puppies. It was so special. Those little pups are just so precious and I could easily have sneaked one into my board bag to take home! Hehe. 


I can't put into words how special my time spent in Arugambay was. The place, the waves, the sunshine but most of all the incredible people that I have become friends with for life!


You know it has been a good trip when you don't want to leave and you actually shed a few tears on your departure. Everyone at Coco Bay became like family over the two weeks and I will miss them all very much. Thank you for sharing your world with me and making me feel so welcome and like part of the family! 

After the goodbyes, it was off to the next part of the adventure - Yala National Park. Seeing this guy on the road out there was unreal! I have never been chased by and elephant but this guy had a good go at chasing after the car! I couldn't wait to get to Yala and head out on safari ❤️