Cooler Feature

Absolutely honoured to be featured along side my absolute heroes in this piece by Sam Haddad of Cooler Magazine about 10 surfers who cheated death. 

It's been a long road to recovery and I'm still working on it. Started a new life in a new place and looking forward to a month in warm water rehabbing a bit more and catching some peelers.

Link is:-

http://cooler.mpora.com/features/day-nearly-died-9-surfers-talk-us-time-cheated-death.html

Number 9 for my story. Thanks again to Cooler for including me :)